Unexplored Kent: Dungeoness- Abandonment & Isolation in “Britain’s Only Desert”
The vast sheet metal structure of a nuclear power station dominates the skyline, striking out against the hazy sky as the sun sets over this shingle desert. A post-apocalyptic landscape, devoid of life. Abandoned ramshackle huts interrupt the expanse of shingle leading out to sea. Littered with decaying fishing vessels and hunks of driftwood, this desolate landscape seems completely abandoned.
But there are signs of life. A small cluster of locals lurk in the shadows of a lighthouse, not far from a dilapidated prefabricated hut identifying as a pub.
Whilst it feels like we’re on the edge of civilization, we’re in fact on the edge of Kent. Dungeoness is certainly a unique, quirky, place and there’s less artistic license than you may think in the first paragraph.
Often called Britain’s only desert, the headland isn’t technically so; though it’s certainly barren and lacking in rainfall in comparison to the rest of the UK, with a climate described as mild and generally warm.
Being one of the largest expanses of shingle in Europe, and home to over 600 plant species, it is of international conservation importance for its geology, plant and invertebrate communities and bird life. Rare moths, bees, beetles, and spiders take up residence here, some found nowhere else in Britain.
Dungeoness A nuclear power station was decommissioned in 2006, and Dungeoness B in 2021, having been commissioned in 1965 and 1983 respectively. The imposing buildings are still going to be dominating the landscape for some time however; Dungeness A is due to enter the care and maintenance phase in 2027. Demolition of the reactor buildings and final site clearance is planned for 2088 to 2098. Dungeoness B will be behind this schedule, having entered its defueling phase later.
The collection of wooden beach houses are mostly populated by fishermen, though holiday lets are increasingly popular. Alongside the beach houses, around 30 dwellings were haphazardly converted from old railway coaches in the 1920s.
This bleak, isolated and eerie spot on the Kent coast is definitely an oddity, but its eccentric charm attracts a million visitors a year. Visiting is not an experience that can be easily replicated elsewhere in the country. It’s also a draw as a filming location, with titles such as Back to Life, Brave New World and Electric Dreams amongst the films and series that have utilised the area’s peculiarity.
We meandered across the shingle for a good while, a peaceful walk along the beach accompanied by the dull hum of the power station. We ducked into the occasional abandoned shack and scrambled across the stones to get a closer look at the odd abandoned fishing boat. There is hidden beauty in this abnormal place. Loosing the light, we joined the locals in the prefab pub, before driving back to the modern world.
Last Updated on 20 January 2025 by Michael
